Ball python care sheet
Ball pythons, and how to care for them.
Ball pythons are likely the most well-known snake among reptile keepers and lovers worldwide. After the boom in the ball python market, we saw a surge of new genetics and breeders from all around the globe creating unbelievable snakes. Ball pythons are generally still recommended for new keepers as their first snake, so it is important to know how to keep them happy and healthy. It is also important to know that there are many ways of doing that, and many methods work well. I am just going to share our practises and experience with you.
Biology of the Ball python
The species originates from Sub Saharan Africa, mainly originating from West Africa but also found in Central Africa. They make use of burrows to hide underground. Their habitat includes savannahs, open grasslands, and forests. As the name suggests, this snake will coil up into a ball when threatened, rarely actually biting.
It is important to note that in the wild ball pythons do not face seasonal temperature changes, but only wet and dry seasonal changes. Which means it is important to keep them warm year-round.
They are active at dawn and dusk, and throughout the night, avoiding daytime heat. They will spend their time mainly on the ground, but they are capable of climbing. Their heat sensing pits on the bottom of their jaw aids in catching their warm blooded prey.
Housing
When it comes to housing a ball python you might see plenty of debate on what is the best way. Firstly, it comes down to whether you are a breeder or just in search of a pet. Breeders house their young animals in rack systems in various different size tubs. I can recommend the medium - large Nomoy pet tub available on our online store for housing young ball pythons. As they grow, the tub size will increase. Many breeders now use a local 46L container for housing and breeding adult ball pythons. The 26L Addis tub used to be popular but the 46L provides more space. When houses in a rack it is important to make use of heating cable or pads and a thermostat to control the temperature.
When it comes to housing a single or a few ball pythons as pets, I will recommend a starting size enclosure of about 600x45x45mm. Hides on both the hot and cold side are necessary, and some clutter can provide safety to prevent stress in young snakes. The enclosure size may upgrade to 900x450x450 up to 1.2m for adults as pets.
Substrate use varies among keepers, many favouring coco peat since it holds humidity well and cleans easy. Others may prefer paper because it is very hygienic and also easy to clean. Some snakes might even prefer one substrate above another, so it is important to experiment and fight the best suited substrate for your animal.
Heating in enclosures can be included via heat pad or heat emitter. If the keeper wants to keep it natural, one could always use a daytime heat lamp for day basking, and a heat emitter or pad for nighttime heat without disrupting light cycles. Either work well, but I personally prefer top heat in case of a display enclosure.
Temperature and humidity
Again, when setting up your new pet it is very important to allow for thermoregulation. Where the snake can bask but completely escape the heat when it wants to. Ball pythons like their hotspot a bit warmer at around 31-33 degrees Celsius. You should allow enough space in the enclosure for the cool side to sit at around 25-27 degrees. Night time temps will drop only a few degrees from these. A thermostat must be included to ensure the snake does not overheat.
A nicely sized water dish will keep humidity levels up but aim for a relative humidity of between 55 to 60%. This may increase slightly when the snake is in shed to around 75%. Depending on substrate this can be achieved through misting the enclosure lightly during the shed cycle.
Feeding
Ball pythons are notorious for their "hunger strikes", which can be stressful for the keeper. The snake should always be inspected but generally worry is unnecessary unless the snake loses condition.
Baby ball pythons are overall a relatively easy snake to establish; many will feed on live prey within a few days. If they do not take frozen thawed right off the bat the keeper must not assist feed out of panic. Assist feeding is only suggested when the snake is already losing weight. When offering frozen thawed, give 5-day periods between offerings.
The juveniles may feed every 7 days on fuzzy - hopper mice. After a month or so they will be ready to take larger mice. As yearlings and upward they can take small rats. Adults will eat medium - large rats every 7-14 days, increasing in frequency slightly when breeding. If a snake stops feeding, husbandry must be reviewed for possible causes.
Conclusion
Whether getting one for a pet or a new breeding project, there is no shortage of selection on the market. Ball pythons have been a focus for many keepers for many years now and new combos are still being produced. In South Africa, we have noted a decline in sales since the market is well saturated, but we must keep in mind the constant swaying in the market where prices and sales dip, before rising again. For breeders, some genes are better for sales than others, and it is worth doing your research before making an investment. When shopping for a pet, there will be plenty of morph options to choose from.