King Cobra

(Ophiophagus Species)

An older picture of our female Malaysian King cobra (Ophiophagus bungarus)

Description

The king cobra is largely known to be the largest venomous snake in the world, growing to lengths of over 4 metres. With records of a specimen reaching nearly 6 metres. Although it is not recognized as a true cobra (Genus – Naja), it spreads a hood like true cobras when it feels threatened. They are intimidating animals and can stand impressively tall as adults. Their peculiar diet is what gets them the title of The King, feeding mainly on other snakes (Particularly Asian rat snake spp, small pythons etc). They will also feed on other species including true cobras (Naja) and some vipers. Young animals may feed on other reptiles like geckos etc. They are also carnivorous and would not let a meal pass by, even if it is of the same species.

The king cobra has a distinctive hiss that may resemble a deep growl in bigger specimens. They will hood up, gape their mouths open and hiss when cornered or threatened. They may even result to charging their aggressor.

The young are born black and white (or black and yellow, depending on species) and will only change colour to their adult colours within the first few months of life. They are the only species known to build a nest for their eggs which the female will guard until they hatch.

Sub species

 

The genus Ophiophagus used to only consist of one species (O. hannah), but was split into multiple species mainly based on locality. This is not widely accepted as of yet. The new species are now:

 

·     Ophiophagus hannah (Eastern Pakistan, Northern and Eastern India, Andaman Islands, Indo Burma and Indo China, South to Central Thailand)

·     Ophiophagus bungarus (Sunda Shelf area including the Malay Peninsula, the Greater Sunda Islands, parts of Southern Philippines.)

·     Ophiophagus kaalinga (Endemic to the Western Ghats of South Western India)

·     Ophiophagus salvatana (Islands of Luzon in Northern Philippines)

 

Venom

 

The venom of the king cobra may vary depending on sub species/locality. The reason for this is likely dietary shifts in different locations. In studies, the venom of Chinese king cobras was found to be more toxic to mice, while South East Asian venoms indicated more toxicity towards lizards. This could produce challenges in dealing with envenomation since there is only one species specific (Monovalent) antivenom produced in Thailand. Due to limited data regarding envenomation, we still face challenges in understanding and treating bites. Luckily, bites are relatively scarce with only nine clinical cases being reported worldwide between 1971 and 2020. In eight of these nine bites the Ophiophagus hannah monovalent Antivenom (OhMAV) was used with varied effectiveness. Patients often required high dosages of antivenom which ranged between 20 to 115 vials. In some case’s we saw only partial reversal in neurological symptoms, which suggests the antivenom might not be as effective in neutralizing the venom in some localities. Administering high volumes of the antivenom comes with its own set of challenges, including potential hypersensitivity, higher treatment costs, and depleting existing antivenom supplies faster. We must not rule out the possibility of untreated bites in rural areas etc.

The venom is primarily neurotoxic, inducing symptoms similar to that of true cobras. Local symptoms may include pain, swelling, and tissue necrosis which may lead to the need for surgical intervention. While other symptoms such as dizziness, vertigo, nausea, ptosis, limb weakness, dysphagia, dysarthria are also common. The paralysis of respiratory muscles can lead to asphyxia, generalized hypoxia, and potentially death due to multiorgan failure.

Bites are more likely to occur in captive environments as opposed to bites from wild individuals where animals have opportunity to flee from confrontation, and the same for humans. The possibility is not ruled out and bites in the wild do occur none the less.

 

Habitat

 

Being as widely distributed as they are, this species can be found in a wide variety of habitats. This may affect how different species should be kept in captivity, with some being more/less tolerant to certain conditions than others (Cold/heat, humidity and even differences in feeding preferences).

They are very widely distributed across Southeast Asia (Including the islands of Java and Sulawesi), Southern China and parts of India. Physical appearance largely depends on the specific area they are from.

They favour tropical forests, but are very diverse habitat wise. They will also inhabit mangrove forests, bamboo thickets, highlands, wetlands, scrublands among a few others. They are also often seen in human modified area such as farms and other agricultural areas.

 

Captivity

 

King cobras are extremely demanding to keep, and even so, that is a complete understatement. They are only meant for the experienced enthusiast after having dealt adequately with the species prior to attempting their own. Hobbyists are urged to take the responsible route, find guidance and mentorship plus proper training and experience as opposed to jumping in to the deep end, which could have major negative impacts not only for the keeper, but for all keepers, in the event of an accident.

None the less, they are an amazing species to work with and are extremely rewarding. At the time of this article being written, our own pair of Malaysian kings (O. bungarus) are being fed up for cycling to breed for the first time.

They are extremely intelligent, and very observant to any changes or movement in their environment. They will often spectate you as you are busy, and ours will come out to explore given the slightest chance.

They require higher than normal hygiene practices, mainly due to their exceptionally fast metabolism (especially as young, but we will get into that soon), but also because of their active nature. They are very busy, and will rearrange cage accessories to their own liking!

 

Caging

They need plenty of space. Young are easily housed in smaller setups such as secure plastic containers, tub racks, or small cages. Most keepers and breeders will opt for tubs or rack systems for a few reasons, being:

·     They are secure and space efficient.

·     The smaller space provides security for the snake, essential for baby kings since they are very prone to stress.

·     The smaller space makes for an easily controlled environment, and assures proper temperature and humidity requirements are met.

·     Tubs are usually relatively cost effective, and come in many shapes and sizes to cater exactly what you need.

·     They can be modified to your specifications, for example adding mesh tops for more ventilation and top basking spots as opposed to heat pads/wire.

a Juvie king cobra exploring outside the rack it was housed in

 

Although tubs work well for juveniles, they will quickly outgrow them due to their ferocious appetite and quick growth. We suggest going for a tub/rack size of no less than 45cm x 30cm x 30cm, which will adjust as the snake grows. Keep in mind that this is just a rough estimate after briefly examining a ruler, and size could well vary depending on different keepers’ preferences.

 

Multiple hides need to be provided throughout the space to ensure the snake can properly thermoregulate while still retaining the security the hide provides. We suggest an easily movable plastic hide to avoid any unnecessary obstacles. These are usually easy to keep clean and cost effective.

Provide medium to large water dishes with frequent water changes, as these animals have a high preference for fresh water. Changing water every second or third day should do the trick, and often you will see the snake drinking shortly after a water change. This also aids in humidity requirements, making shedding an easy process. Somehow, our kings always seem to retain the tail tips after a shed no matter the humidity, which needs to be manually removed. We strongly recommend a tube to safely secure the snake before working on it. Some also retain eye caps, which can also be removed through slits in a transparent tube. Kings can be misted down lightly during the shedding process to avoid any issues, but we don’t recommend a wet environment, especially not for long periods of time.

Substrate should be humidity tolerant. We can look at multiple types of mulches, sphagnum moss, wood chips, various coco peats/coco husks and many mixes of the above. We have also mixed bamboo leaves into our substrate for a more natural appearance. If you’re going for a more sanitary approach, there is nothing wrong with newspaper or paper towels. Although, substrate makes spot cleaning easier without necessarily having to remove the snake. Make use of equipment such as poop scoops etc, never insert hands into an enclosure with a venomous snake inside. Ventilation is a very important part of their husbandry, and proper cross ventilation provides good airflow.

Adult kings are going to need a lot of space, so I would strongly suggest not getting a baby if you are not able to spare a room in your house eventually. The same rules as above apply to adults, but they might be more tolerant to stress given that you have captive bred animals. Wild caught adults will still be very prone to stress related problems. Size wise, we should aim for as big as possible for adults. In my opinion, we should not use any less than 4m x 2m x 2m for an average sized adult, this would be the minimum. Ideally, a room sized enclosure will suffice to a large adult king. Anything between these two options can be suitable for specific sized adults. Some sub species are smaller and may fit happily in caging at the smaller end of this spectrum.

 

Temperature and humidity

Young animals prefer cooler temperatures. We raised our kings on around 27 degrees Celsius. We can safely aim for an ambient temperature of between 26 and 29 degrees. With hotspot temps around 30 degrees, and cool side temps of about 24 degrees. Again, our temperature should differ well from warm to cold side to provide proper opportunity for thermoregulation.

For younger animals we provide heat via the use of heat pads or heating wire in a rack, but as they grow and move into their more permanent enclosures, I would suggest going for an over top heat source, or even a few different sources of over top heat. Ceramic heat emitters are good to use, and we use them in most of our caging. Although, for a deeper, more penetrative heat source we would go for daylight basking lamps, and infrared basking lamps. This will be necessary especially for gravid females which will need this type of heat to properly develop eggs. If you use a heat source that does not provide light, a LED light that does not produce heat should be added to provide a proper daylight cycle.

 

Humidity should be kept moderate, and in my opinion a range between 65 and 75 percent is adequate. Short periods of higher humidity during shedding cycles are recommended. Humid hides are also another tool that can be used to increase humidity in smaller areas of the enclosure, and are particularly helpful during shed cycles. Other ways to provide humidity includes large water bowls and light misting. Some substrates will aid more to humidity than others.

 

Feeding

There are many different theories and opinions as to the best way to start and maintain king cobras. As previously mentioned, different sub species might have different feeding preferences during different stages of life. While some might acclimate better to certain food items than others.

I will now give you my opinion, and then mention a few others as well.

When starting baby kings off, I believe it is best to start off on frozen thawed snakes (Corn snakes are a good option since they are common and cheap). Some kings will have preference over which snakes they eat, and I have heard that some avoid some keeled scaled snakes (in my own experience, ours have not had much disliking to keeled scales, but the male would absolutely not touch a carpet python). In my experience, kings take very uncomfortably to pinky mice in the first few months of life. They are naturally more inclined to slender, elongated prey such as snakes or lizards of sorts. They have difficulty swallowing rodents for some time. I would avoid assist feeding as much as possible, given the nature of these snakes to succumb to stress. If there are options available that would result in them eating without assisting, that is always the best option. We kept ours on snakes for the first few months until they started changing to their adult colour. We then started converting them to rodents which proved relatively simple. Remember, every individual is different and some might be more difficult than others. We simply took single pinkies wrapped in snake shed, and offered them that way. They took quick and hassle-free right off the tongs, although some will prefer the prey just being left outside their hide for easy access and privacy.

We kept them on rodents for a while, but it is best to offer a mixed diet including snakes. They seemed to grow slower on only rodents. We have since adjusted our menu, and they now have a complete mixed diet of snakes (Species varies seasonally), rodents (which they do not favour as adults, but I know some keepers who keep their adults on a mainly rodent diet) and a mix of chicken hearts and necks.

Other options may include force feeding via pinky press, but then again, I would avoid any stressful options.

I prefer to freeze prey first to avoid parasites, but some picky eaters may prefer live snakes at first. Alternative methods to trigger a feeding response include “braining”, which is simply cutting open the head of a frozen prey item. This scent may induce a feeding response and is a common trick used for many species.

I have read of keepers using fish to scent prey with apparent success. Wild caught kings might prefer their natural diet of rat snakes or smaller pythons, which might be difficult to provide.

Another trick I can recommend is using a self-made paste of blended snake for scenting, this concept originally came from feeding picky vipers and adders and blending up gecko paste to smear on pinkies.

There are many ways to get a king cobra, or any snake to eat, you merely have to experiment and find the method that suits your specific animal. Converse with like-minded individuals and learn from the experience of others.

Handling

Handling will greatly vary depending on each individual. Babies will generally run and fall everywhere when confronted. They will also climb hooks when given the opportunity, so I would recommend using longer hooks. I generally avoid tailing on small snakes, due to them being able to turn around and climb their bodies with ease. The closer the tail is to the head, the further your hand should stay away from it. Short distance transfers are recommended, placing transfer bins next to each other. Do not be afraid to drop a hook when necessary.

Adults are generally somewhat relaxed in captivity, but again, every individual is different. Either way, their sheer size makes handling a mission. The use of trap boxes will make your life much easier and significantly longer when dealing with big and angry elapids. Provide a box that can be used as a hide, but has a locking door for when the snake is inside. The right size is dependent on the snake, but if they can fit in and feel secure, it will likely work.

Alternatively, hooking and tailing works. Kings are much different to handle than any other snake, so much caution must be taken as they will actively move and climb up towards the handlers’ hands. They are more difficult placing into bins due to their habit of going up. The use of tubes will go a long way in directing them where you want them to go.

Notes from keepers

While I was writing this article, the idea had crossed my mind to engage with other keepers and find out if they had anything they would want the reader to know. So, I asked others that have worked with kings if they had any knowledge they wanted to share. This is what they said:

Two breeders pointed out that juveniles are quite difficult to sex accurately, apparently not popping well before six months of age. Both genders probe very similarly with a minor difference of one sub caudal scale between male and female.

One of these breeders also pointed out that there is a noticeable colour change in Chinese banded males (O. hannah) during the breeding season, turning to a light silver/grey colour. 

Among this, one keeper also pointed out that chicken hearts cut into strips could also help during the converting period, since they seem to have a particular liking to this as a meal. 
Furthermore, keepers seem to really find this species rewarding to raise especially. Also mentioning how demanding they are as a whole to keep happy and healthy. 

 

Conclusion

In conclusion, this snake is not for everybody. It remains a highly venomous species which requires much more than your average snake. I urge keepers not to jump into the deep end with this one. They will only be rewarding if done right. Otherwise, if you are not prepared, it will only be chaos. In which case – losing a snake’s life and some money is one of the best outcomes…

If you are not prepared to give them the space of an entire room in your house, and to spend significant amounts on feeding and caging, they might be better enjoyed elsewhere.

If you are prepared to dedicate many hours into gaining experience, set up a generous budget for maintaining and housing them long term, and deal with a massive highly venomous snake, they can be a very nice addition to your collection.